Thank you everyone for your love and support. It truly has been an adventure. Wishing everyone all the best in 2012 God Bless Love The Captain & Gilligan (Bob & Donna)
After returning from St. Barts we started to prepare ourselves for more sailing… possibly heading for St. Kitts and points south… weather permitting.
The Caribbean however was feeling the effects of some late winter storms off the East Coast of the USA, this was evident by the full Lagoon as ‘Cruisers’ took refuge to wait for better weather… Good anchoring spots were at a premium and dinghy traffic was much busier than normal. This required a watchful eye whenever you were on the water.
One evening while enjoying a ‘cool one’ with Jan. We heard the engine of a dinghy as it passed by us. The dinghy was close, but as it was a dark night, it was hard to see it although there was a small running light mounted on the engine.
Suddenly, there was a loud crash, then silence! The dinghy had run into something, what exactly we were soon to find out.
The silence was broken by shouting, then the sound of the dinghy motor being started and racing off, then the sound of Jan’s phone ringing…
The dinghy had hit one of Jan’s company dinghies tied at the back of an employee’s boat. Like Jan, some of his employees live on boats and take their company dinghies home.
The dinghy’s outboard engine was in the water being held on by the fuel line and the engine cover was at the bottom of the Lagoon.
Of course that was the end of our ’cool one’ with Jan as he headed off to assess the damage…
Even with the help of the ‘Cruisers Net’ the dinghy and its operator were never located….
Unfortunately accidents like this are common in Simpson Bay Lagoon – day or night – and sometimes such accidents even result in fatalities.
We rarely venture off the boat at night and are on constant guard when we are on the Lagoon in the daytime…
Once again the weather is keeping us boat bound but we are hoping for a change in the weather soon…..
Waiting out weather is always a challenge but for a few days while boat bound we were entertained by a group of World War Two planes from the Texas Flying Legends Museum.
The planes were in the Caribbean as part of the 25th annual St. Bart’s Bucket Sailing Regatta and despite some wild weather were able to fly everyday.
The participating aircraft included a P-40K Warhawk, a Goodyear FG-1D Corsair, a P-51D Mustang and a B-25J
.
The 70-year-old aircraft were flown 1,100 nautical miles from Houston to Sint Maarten and then back to Houston.
This type of trip had never been tried before and to accomplish the trip the planes had to cross more water than had ever been attempted since World War II.
The group made two stops between Houston and Fort Lauderdale, and three stops between Fort Lauderdale and Sint Maarten – total flying time 14 hours.
The Sint Maarten airport which is located right beside Simpson Bay Lagoon was the plane’s Caribbean base.
Every morning the planes performed a fly past over the St. Barths regatta and every afternoon, at the end of the day’s races, they performed a 20 minute air show over St. Bart’s Shell Beach.
So, every day for 3 days – 4 times a day we got a private air show as the planes took off and landed.
On the day they headed home they did a fly past over the Lagoon as a final salute.
Being an airplane officiando - The Admiral was in his glory and by the end of the 3 days even Gilligan could identify the different aircraft.
It something not many see in a lifetime.
We were truly privileged.
The Weather God’s are at it again…
The effects of the late winter storms were being felt as far south as Sint Maarten well into March this year and they were packing a wallop….
We were looking at heading south to St. Kitts but found ourselves bracing once again for several more days of strong winds 18-20 knots gusting to 25 knots. These conditions continued for over a week! !
Once again we found ourselves boat bound !
Slowly the winds started to drop below 15 knots things were calming down or were they??
We took the opportunity of the ‘lighter’ winds and one afternoon headed ashore and enjoyed a walk along Simpson Bay Beach. It was good to be on land….
We had just returned to Bergy (relatively dry! !) when the wind started to kick up, you could hear it coming in the distance and it hit with a wallop…
Within minutes several boats were going ‘walk about’ dragging anchor. On one side of us two boats which appeared to be anchored far enough apart got tangled up in each others anchors and on the other side of us one boat ‘s dinghy had wrapped itself around another boat’s anchor chain and the ‘dinghy’ boat was now bow into the side of his neighbour.
Despite the conditions it was amazing how many people sprang into action boarding drifting boats, trying to untangle other boats. At times the rain was so thick you could barely see a foot in front of you and the wind (we learned later) had sustained gusts of 35 -40 knots…
Bob and I tried to deal with the boats closest to us where the dinghy had wrapped itself around the anchor chain. After assessing the situation with the conditions the way they were we decided it was safest left alone as releasing the dinghy could possibly have ended up with one boat impaling itself into the side of the other… Something we definitely didn’t want to take responsibility for. Later that day – the boat’s ‘Care Taker’ did exactly as we would have done and cut the dinghy free – both boats co-operated and swung away from each other and all was well with the world.
As is very typical of the Caribbean, a ‘Big Blow’ is quite often followed by a lovely Caribbean sunset … this time was no exception…
Each year in the Caribbean we have had unique adventures and this year was no exception….
Although we had some great sailing, we also were boat bound more than normal due to the high winds and high seas – thanks to all those late winter storms on the East Coast! !
As our time in the Caribbean was coming to a close and the weather wasn’t co-operating for sailing south – due to the high South East winds and high seas – we decided to leave Bergy Bit behind and head to the island of Saba (by air) for some ‘land’ time.
Although you can anchor off Saba or pick up a mooring ball, it is always a rocky rolly ride on Saban shores due to the swells that constantly buffet the island. As it is a volcanic cone there really are no beaches and getting ashore can prove to be a real challenge – especially in a small dinghy. In fact, last year a boater lost his life trying to get ashore in rough conditions.
Commonly referred to as ‘The Unspoiled Queen’ of the Caribbean, Saba- a volcanic cone – is located about 28 miles south west of Sint Maarten.
Saba prides itself in its world renown underwater diving, its Rain Forest, its hiking trails, its medical school, its red and white houses and its amazing road -which you have to see to believe…
The island is approximately 5 sq. miles; basically a mountain that sticks out of the ocean. It has six ecosystems with a wide range of flora and fauna and is currently in the process of becoming a World Heritage site.
Despite its beauty, however, Saba had little to offer tourists and local residents were moving away due to lack of work.
In 1989 it was thought the island would become uninhabited by the year 2000.
However in the early 1990′s ‘eco’ tourism started to bring tourists to the island and today the island of Saba has a thriving tourist base with its underwater diving and hiking trails.
The trip to Saba by air is worth every penny…. Saba’s airport has the smallest commercial air strip in the world – a mere 400 metres (about the length of an aircraft carrier) and like an aircraft carrier at either end there is a drop into the water. Saba’s airport sits between 2 cliffs that drop about 200 feet to the Caribbean Sea.
This photo was taken from a moving bus and unfortunately doesn’t really show the cliffs at either end of the runway
When you land on Saba the captain literally stands on the brakes to get the aircraft to stop! When you take off the captain stands on the brakes, revs the engines to full throttle, releases the brakes and the plane starts its take off. When you reach the end of the runway the plane literally drops off the cliff and you are flying…. Like I said the trip to Saba by air is worth every penny.
We stayed at Flamboyant Cottage - a lovely little cottage in the area known as Booby Hill – about a 15 minute walk from the village of Windwardside.
Now keep in mind where ever you go or what ever you do on Saba it is either up hill or down hill. The hike back to the cottage from Windwardside – up hill – took about 25 minutes. I will never ever complain about Bay Road in Davis Bay again ….
Flamboyant Cottage had a lovely pool and despite the fact the Cistern was almost empty and water conservation was imperative – the pool was full and we enjoyed it most days after we had hiked home.
Our week went by far too quickly.
We returned to Sint Maarten and Bergy Bit and finally calmer weather!
After a wonderful week in Saba we returned to Sint Maarten as our time to return home was fast approaching.
While we were in Saba the weather calmed down which meant that when we returned to Bergy Bit we weren’t ‘boat bound’ any longer and could enjoy getting ashore.
On Palm Sunday I headed over to Philipsburg to St.Simon’s and St. Jude’s Anglican Church. A church I have attended on many occassions, including Palm Sunday.
I had no trouble getting a bus so arrived early only to find the streets and the church deserted…
Luckily there was someone in the Church directing people to the Cruise Ship pier where the congregations of the three downtown Philipsburg churches were gathering for a blessing of the Palms and a procession through the streets of Philipsburg back to their respective churches
What a sight, local Sint Maartener’s along with tourists gathered on the Cruise ship pier with Palm branches.
Most people brought Palm branches from home – banana palm, coconut palm and large round Egyptian palms. Plenty of smaller palm branches (which we North Americans are more accustom to) were available for those without palms.
It really was an ecumenical service. The Catholic Priest opened with an invocation, followed by great gospel and praise songs lead by the Catholic music ministry team. Prayers were said by the Methodist minister. Blessing of the palms was shared by the three churches and the sending forth was done by the Anglican priest.
Both the Methodist and Catholic churches have drum corps commonly referred to as Youth Brigades - (Click on Youth Brigades to see one of the drum corps in action)
People sang as we processed through the streets of Philipsburg and as each congregation reached their church they left the procession to continue Palm Sunday services in their own church.
It really was an incredible experience and I will remember this Palm Sunday for many years to come….
To say this has been a challenging and frustrating year is a bit of an understatement.
However, we are very Blessed to have had the opportunity to experience warm sunny weather during Canada’s winter months even in a dusty Boatyard.
Internet Access was a real CHALLENGE both on and off the Water….I truly don’t know how businesses using the Internet manage in Sint Maarten….
We endured some wild weather, learned some new skills like bending a baquette and fixing carburetors, but most importantly have some wonderful wonderful memories.
Memories like the incredible sail back from St. Barts, our time with Larry & Brenda in St. Maarten and St. Barts, an air show of vintage planes, incredible sunsets, a Palm Sunday procession, the flight to Saba, our days at Flamboyant Cottage, good times with St. Maarten friends and finally our last sail on Bergy Bit with Jan …
Yes folks, we have sold our dear Bergy Bit and this year was our last year enjoying her in the Caribbean waters.
It truly has been 7 incredible years and we are Blessed to have done it all.
Bergy Bit has been left in good hands…. as ‘The Love Story’ continues…..
It’s hard to believe our three months are up and it’s time to head home.
Like in other years there are so many people to Thank for making this a memorable year.
To the ‘crew’ at the Turquoise Shell Inn, Thanks for your wonderful hospitality and so many wonderful memories. It’s been a slice.
To the ‘crew’ at Bobby’s Marina (Airport Division). Thanks for keeping Bergy safe and sound.
To the Sint Maarten coffee ladies. Thank You for so many years of great times and wonderful memories.
To our nephew Jeff Sill (our ‘Webmaster’) – Thank You for our Bergy Bit blogsite :O)
To our Pirate (yes that’s right Pirate not Private) Taxi Drivers, Maria and Peter & Jean. Thanks so much for the rides to and from the airport and for all the places you chauffeured us. Peter & Jean you certainly went above and beyond the call getting up at 5:00AM but it was a morning where Sint Maarten was at its finest. Which left us with very fond memories..
To our friend Jan Zwiers, simply Thank You!
And as for the The Admiral and Gilligan and Bergy Bit.
This was our ‘Swan Song’.
We knew in our hearts that this would be our last year in St. Maarten and it was.
To quote Alain (from SV Pretty Woman) who was the yacht broker who helped us sell Bergy the first time and then helped us buy her back – The Love Story Continues.
There is something about this little boat that gets in your blood and makes you fall in love with her – that’s why we jumped at the chance to buy her back in 2008…. and why in 2011 our friend Jan (who we bought Bergy from in 2004) and who is even more in love her than we are, jumped at the chance to buy her once again….
The Love Story truly does continue and it is comforting to know Bergy is back in the hands of some one who will love her.
We have had great times, some hair raising adventures, we’ve met people from around the world and made life time friendships.
We wouldn’t change a minute of it…
A final memory was standing on the dock at Simpson Bay as our dear friend Jan sailed Bergy Bit off into a beautiful Caribbean sunset.
Fair Winds and Following Seas …
So you might ask – now what??
Well for the The Admiral he has had his fill of the Caribbean. For Gilligan though the Caribbean still beckons. This year she once again fell in love with the island of Saba and hopes to return there sometime in the future as part of a Volunteer Canadian team that maintains the Saba hiking trails.
As for new adventures. The Admiral (now a Captain again) and Gilligan will enjoy sailing and enjoying the waters of British Columbia’s Coast and perhaps will start exploring beautiful BC by land.
We bid farewell with this Irish Blessing -
“May the road rise up to meet you, may the wind be ever at your back. May the sun shine warm upon your face and the rain fall softly on your fields. And until we meet again, May God hold you in the palm of his hand.”
ODE TO SINT MAARTEN
It’s been seven years we’ve visited here this Sint Maarten land With it’s lift span bridge, mega yachts and beaches with white sand We’ve lived aboard our little boat in Simpson Bay Lagoon With roosters for alarm clocks and goats bleating at the moon So many cherished memories of all the things we’ve done Sailing out little Bergy Bit we’ve had mis-adventures and great fun We’ve met folks from many countries living out their dream Sailing the Caribbean either solo or as a team But our dearest friends and memories are the ones we have made here Mirjam, Jan and Anna and the ‘Coffee’ ladies dear There’s been beach parties and snorkeling and lunch at Petite Café Tai Chi, Zumba and Aqua-Size and ‘coffee’ by the Bay Pot luck affairs, Dance recitals, Sister Regina School fun days Wet dinghy rides, Caribbean squalls and dinghies gone astray But now it’s time to bid farewell to Bergy Bit and you So thanks for all the memories, the old ones and the new Sint Maarten lives within our hearts as a very special place We always will remember it with smiles on our faces It’s time for new adventures as we venture forth anew With memories for a lifetime we bid you all adieuGod Bless You All
The Captain and Gilligan
After our wonderful day with Larry and Brenda we spent the night on anchor in Anse de Corosol and the next day headed over to Anse de Colombier. Our favourite anchorage in St. Barts.
We have had many wonderful times in Anse de Colombier which has a long white sandy beach and rock outcroppings that provide for some good snorkelling. Anse de Colombier is a hangout for sea turtles and if you are lucky the occasional octopus or spotted eagle ray – simply amazing creatures to watch!
Overlooking Anse de Colombier is what most people refer to as ‘The Rockerfeller House’ originally owned by David Rockerfeller but apparently now owned by Harrison Ford.
The weather was perfect, we swam and snorkelled and just enjoyed being aboard our little Bergy Bit.
Anse de Colombier has become a very busy anchorage and every night it was full to overflowing and as in past years the Mega Yachts would show up for the day, ‘ferry’ Tables, Chairs, Lunch and Passengers ashore and at Sunset load everything back on board, pull up anchor and set off for Gustavia, the capital of St. Barts or their next port of call!
Occasionally a Mega Yacht will stay anchored overnight and this year a British Mega Yacht anchored overnight while we were there. In the morning we watched the crew set up an outdoor gym on the foredeck – treadmills, stationary bikes, weights etc. When the workouts were done the passengers enjoyed breakfast on the rear deck and then were ferried ashore for a day at the beach! !
After 4 wonderful days of sunshine, stormy weather was headed our way and it was time to head either south to St. Kitts or back to St. Maarten. As the wind was from the Southeast – directly in our teeth if we headed for St. Kitts – we decided to head back to St. Maarten to our safe little corner and wait out the weather.
The sail from St. Barts to Sint Maarten was incredible – what some sailors would call ‘A Sleigh Ride’. Anse de Colombier to Simpson Bay in 3 hours – average speed 5.5 knots, with a top speed of 6.5 knots. Bergy was flying. The only downside were the 8 to 10 foot swells, but even those were on our stern quarter which didn’t make for too much rocking and rolling… (click here for video of our sail)
We had a wonderful time in St. Barts but were very glad to be back in St. Maarten and in our safe little anchorage near the Witches Tit!
Little did we know what we were in store for!
The Admiral and Gilligan Safe and Sound in Simpson Bay Lagoon Sint Maarten










